Kedarkantha Snow Trek For The First Time

KEDARKANTHA SNOW TREK FOR THE FIRST TIME

It started with a very random conversation with my friend Mady. We were discussing the importance of stepping away from job stress, and guess the solution? Yes, it was a 'Hike to Snow-Capped Mountain.' We have completed many treks in the Sahyadri region of Maharashtra, but so far, we had not trekked in the Himalayas. A trek to a snow-capped mountain was one of the most awaited dreams that could not be fulfilled for various reasons. Now was the time to give my dream a positive direction. My fingers scrolled through the list of Himalayan mountains in the Uttarakhand region, which boasts numerous proud peaks, and one of them was the snow-covered Kedarkantha, so I finally decided to do the Kedarkantha snow trek for the first time.

ABOUT KEDARKANTHA

Kedar means 'Lord Shiva,' and Kantha means 'Throat.' The story dates back to the Mahabharata. The Pandavas wished to build the Kedarnath temple here, but due to some omens, they left the temple half-finished, stopping at the throat. Later, that temple was completed in Kedarnath. Kedarkantha is one of those magical mountains that offers a 360-degree view of the Uttarakhand Mountains. Kedarkantha is a name that evokes images of snow-capped peaks, lush green meadows, tall pine trees, and sunlight dousing your trail in a golden glow. The mountain is situated at an elevation of 12500 feet. 

HOW TO REACH KEDARKANTHA

Sankri is the base village to start the trek in the Uttarkashi district of Uttarakhand state. This can be accessed in the following ways.

BY AIR

The nearest airport is Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun which is located about 25 km from Dehradun city. It is further well connected from Delhi airport.

BY TRAIN

You need to reach Dehradun railway station, which is well connected from major cities like Mumbai, Bangalore, and Delhi. There are frequent trains available from Delhi to Dehradun.

One can reach Haridwar station from Delhi and then share a cab or a bus to Dehradun.

BY ROAD

Dehradun is 255 km from Delhi so one can go by drive. There are regular buses that run from Delhi to Dehradun so it is advised to board government bus from Kashmiri gate in Delhi for Dehradun. One can also travel from Haridwar to Dehradun by bus.

Once you reach Dehradun take local transport like cab or bus to reach Sankri which is base village of the trek. Sankri is 200 km from Dehradun (There are only two buses available in between 6 am to 8 am).

KEDARKANTHA TREK FROM MUMBAI 

Day 1 TRAIN JOURNEY FROM MUMBAI

December 24, 2019, was the day that was going to be a dream come true for me. The day started with bad news, as we missed our ticket confirmation by just 9 seats. Somehow, we managed to travel in the general compartment of the express train, which was a 22-hour journey from Mumbai to Delhi. Dehradun station was closed for a few months, so we had to travel via Haridwar.

DAY 2 HARIDWAR TO DEHRADUN

My plan was to reach Haridwar and then go directly to Dehradun. On the morning of the second day, we arrived in Delhi and took another express train to Haridwar. The distance from Delhi to Haridwar was no more than 4 hours. With enough time on our hands, we decided to explore Haridwar. “The best of the journey comes when they are unplanned,” and with plenty of time, we headed to Har ki Pauri in Haridwar, which was only 2 km from the Haridwar station. Har Ki Pauri is a famous Ghat on the River Ganga where hundreds take a dip in the waters of the Ganges. Aarti takes place daily in the evening from 6 pm to 7 pm. After the aarti, we enjoyed Haridwar special Paratha and left for Dehradun by shared cab. The distance from Haridwar to Dehradun was 2 hours by cab. Upon reaching Dehradun, we booked a hotel near Tyagi Road and stayed overnight. (Haridwar to Dehradun share cab charge-70 INR per person).

Some glimpse of Har Ki Pauri, Haridwar

HARIDWAR

DAY 3 DRIVE FROM DEHRADUN TO SANKRI (195 km drive)       

Dehradun-Kedarkantha-Dehradun, an ideal itinerary, takes 5 days, but we finished this distance in 3 days.

We checked out early at 5 am and started our journey toward our destination. We met two other adventurous travelers, Manav and Ujwal, from Delhi, and became good friends for the whole trek. "Sometimes the journey is better than the destination." We hired a shared cab to reach Sankri, the base village of Kedarkantha. Today, the cab journey was about 195 km long, and the drive was so scenic, passing through Mussoorie hill station and along the Tons River on one side with winding roads. One can enjoy the view of lush green mountains and feel like they're standing on top of the clouds. We insisted that the cab driver take a photo break, as we wanted to capture some views of Mussoorie. This is one of the chillest places, famous for its Kempty Falls.

MUSSOORIE VIEWS

MUSOORIE HILL STATION

The route was Dehradun- Vikasnagar- Selaqui- Nougau- Purola- Netwar- Sankri. Remember the mobile network will not be available once you cross Purola village. We reached Sankri at 4 pm in the evening. Temperature at Sankri was in the range of 2 to 4 degree. (Cab charges from Dehradun to Sankri-500 INR per person).

            
Sankri is the base village where you can find several guest houses and homes to stay in. There are two shops where trekking gear is available for rent. We didn't have crampons for the trek, and luckily, the shop owner had only four crampons, which we reserved for ourselves. After renting the essential gear, we went to look for a place to stay overnight. We settled at Matri Devi homestay for the night. They charged us 500 per person, which included one night's food and lodging. Remember, once you reach Sankri, head straight to the DC office to obtain a permit, especially if you're coming alone, as a permit is compulsory for all trekkers entering Govind Wildlife Sanctuary, where the trek starts. If you don't show a guide to the officers at the DC office, you won't get a permit. That’s why we needed to take a guide with us, who also assisted us with food at the trek point. Mr. Meher Singh, who met us at Sankri, became our guide for the entire trek. He charged 1200 per person for our group of four and helped us from obtaining the permit to providing food until we completed the trek. 

 BEAUTIFUL SANKRI VILLAGE

PAHADI PEOPLE ARE SO KIND TO TREAT THE GUEST

DAY 4- SANKRI TO KEDARKANTHA BASE CAMP (8 KM)

The ideal trek from Sankri lasts 4 days, beginning and ending in Sankri. Most travel companies offer this trek, which includes: Day 1 - Sankri to Juda ka Talab, a 4 km walk; Day 2 - Juda ka Talab to Kedarkantha base camp, another 4 km walk; Day 3 - Kedarkantha base camp to Kedarkantha peak and back to base camp, a total of 6 km; and Day 4 - base camp back to the village of Sankri. We completed this trek in 30 hours, returning to Sankri. After an overnight stay at a home stay, we woke up at 7 am and headed to the DC office to obtain a permit for the trek. Mr. Meher Singh, our guide, assisted us with the permit and documentation process, allowing us to start this trek without wasting any time. The trek begins in a charming little village called Sankri, with the trail starting just a short 5-minute walk from the village. "Do breathe in and out, exercise before starting the trek." For me, trekking in Maharashtra was easy, but tackling the trek in a low-oxygen area with a backpack loaded with 10 kg of gear was going to be quite tough. It took us 3 hours to cover the distance of 4 km to the first checkpoint, called 'Juda ka Talab (Lake).' The temperature was below freezing since the lake was frozen, but no one was allowed to walk on it due to safety concerns. A slight change in altitude can be astonishing. This was the first time I had ever seen a frozen lake in real life, and my happiness was boundless. The ascent becomes difficult when you're carrying at least 10 kg in your backpack, which includes a tent, mat, and sleeping bag, especially in a low-oxygen area. Along the way to 'Juda ka Talab,' there are small huts that offer Maggi, eggs, and tea only.

SOME MYSTICAL GLIMPSE OF JUDA KA FROZEN TALAB

JUDA KA FROZEN LAKE

FIRST CAMP SITE BEFORE REACHING JUDA KA TALAB

After this freezing break, we started toward our destination as the mountain was calling us. We had some fruit and an energy bar, which helped us regain lost energy. You can keep some orange candy with you; it helped me a lot. You should keep drinking water every half an hour, even if you don't feel thirsty. From here, the track has a steep ascent that goes through a dense forest of pine and oak trees, which are buried deeper in snow. At 3 pm, we reached the base point. Upon reaching the base, Mr. Meher Singh helped us set up our tent that we had already carried, and later he cooked some Dal Rice for us. The real twist comes here: after eating a couple of bites, it turned into ice-cold Dal Rice for us. This is the first time I've experienced this, but since there was no other choice, we had to eat that cold rice. We had a long break here before sunset and gathered some firewood. Our relaxation time continued for a while, which made us more photogenic. Kedarkantha Base Camp lies at 11250 feet, where we experienced camping with a bone-chilling fire.

THIS IS OUR SAHYADRI TENT, WHICH WORKED VERY WELL ALONG WITH A TARPAULIN SHEET

KEDARKANTHA BASE CAMPING, LAST CHECK POINT BEFORE PEAK

The evening sky view was equally pretty, with shining stars and planets adorning the sky. As night falls, the sight becomes even more gorgeous, with the Milky Way stretching from one end to the other. By the time our dinner was ready, Mr. Meher Singh called us to enjoy the delicious meal he had made, and trust me, it was incredibly tasty. After dinner, we went to sleep, as the next day was going to be very tough. The temperature drops at night, reaching -7 degrees. Overnight stay at the tent.

DAY 5 BASE CAMP-KEDARKANTHA SUMMIT-SANKRI(14 KM)& THEN BACK TO DEHRADUN

Yes, this is where our turning point lies. The last day of the trek was going to be a hectic and long one. Today, trekkers need to hike from an elevation of 11250 feet to 12500 feet. Ideally, it is a long day, but the excitement of the journey and conquering the peak will be far greater and much more worthwhile. We kept everything inside the tent except for our camera. Mr. Meher Singh heated up some water for us to drink along the way and left the base camp at around 3 am. Many people with us turned on their flashlights and started walking in a queue toward the summit. Everyone had one aim, and guess what? It was to reach the summit before the sun did. If you are visiting Kedarkantha, then never miss the sunrise from the peak.

Night walk towards the final destination, where the temperature ranged from -5 to -7 degrees, was an amazing experience. Now was the time for crampons to come into the picture. As the snow became hard to walk on, crampons were the ones that would help you ascend, giving grip to your shoes. Without crampons, it is impossible to climb up. The ascent through deep snow is such a narrow path that you will have to walk in a queue. As I started reaching higher altitudes, my heart began pumping fast. I knew I was suffering a lot, as this was my first trek in sub-zero temperatures with low oxygen. "Best of the view comes after the hardest climb." When you look back from the top, seeing only headlamp lights zigzagging and the sound of crampon spikes fracturing the ice is enchanting. Towards the end of the trail, the trek becomes a little difficult for first-time trekkers.

 

Climbing through oak trees until the end, one can find Kedarkantha Peak much closer. At 6:00 am, we reached the summit. At the top of the peak, there is a beautiful small temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. There is a small shrine of Lord Ganesh, too. When you reach the top and see all the people standing back to each other, waiting for the sun to slowly appear and paint the sky, it's a breathtaking view. It was a dream come true for me. One can bask in the first rays of the morning sun and regain all lost energy. One can even visualize the arresting 360-degree view of the snow-capped peaks of Uttarakhand. One can relax at the top and enjoy the magical beauty of the sunrise. In my entire life, I have never seen such a huge crowd walking in the cold night just to witness the magical sunrise from Kedarkantha.

MAGICAL VIEW OF SUN PAINTING THE SKY

AT SUMMIT OF KEDARKANTHA

We clicked lots of pictures on top, though it was so cold at summit. One of my favorite and dream came true picture was holding India’s flag from the height of 12500 feet. One of my trek mate was feeling so cold due to which he could not remove his gloves that appeared in my photo.

MYSELF HOLDING A FLAG FROM A HEIGHT OF 12500 FEET

We spent almost two hours at the top of the peak and began our return journey via a different route. This trail was covered with snow, and we slid down through it. Those who have waterproof clothing can slide. Descending from any trek is quite easy. It took almost an hour and a half to get back to base camp. I was feeling very hungry by that time. Mr. Meher Singh made some Maggi for us. We packed our bags and left around 11 am to make our way back to Sankri. Descending from any trek doesn't take much time. We reached Sankri around 3 pm without taking multiple breaks and immediately took a cab to Dehradun. We all fell asleep in the cab after a long day, listening to Pahadi songs. We arrived in Dehradun at 11 pm that night and then traveled overnight to Delhi by sleeper coach (charges 400 INR per person).

DAY 6 RETURN JOURNEY FROM DEHRADUN TO MUMBAI VIA DELHI

We reached Delhi early morning at 5 am and took express (Goa Sampark Kranti Express) train from Delhi to Mumbai, that took almost 15 hours to reach Mumbai. Luckily, we got an emergency ticket in a sleeper coach. I was still missing Kedarkanthas magical peak. Now my must visit place list is added all the top Mountains from Uttarakhand region.

IDEAL TIME TO VISIT KEDARKANTHA

Kedarkantha can be trekked year-round, except during the monsoon season. The ideal time is from November to January, when temperatures range from 0 to -10 degrees. During this period, heavy snowfall may close access to the final summit at the peak. Before departing, one should check the weather conditions. From February to May, the trek offers breathtaking views. However, heavy snowfall may hinder reaching the summit.

PLACES TO STAY NEAR KEDARKANTHA

If you want to stay in Dehradun, there are plenty of OYO hotels available near Tyagi Road that offer accommodations ranging from a minimum of 400 INR to 1000 INR per person. We stayed at Hotel Mayank, which charged 400 per person, and it was quite decent. In Sankri, there are many homestay options available in a reasonable range, along with delicious homemade food. One of my favorites was the Matri-Devi homestay. At Kedarkantha base camp, the only accommodation option is camping. If you’re going with a company, you don’t need to worry about camping. If you’re traveling solo, you can rent camping gear in Sankri.

RENTAL COST OF ALL TREK EQUIPMENT AVAILABLE AT SANKRI THAT WILL HELP YOU TO MANAGE THE TREK

COST OF RENTING EQUIPMENT

OTHER PLACES TO VISIT IN UTTARAKHAND

• Rishikesh- Yoga city at Himalayan foothills of the Himalayas.
• Haridwar- Hilltop temple and Ganges ceremony.
• Jim Corbett National Park- Bengal tigers and Ramganga reservoir.
• Nainital-Hilltop resort is set on Nainital Lake.
• Tungnath temple- Worlds highest Shiva temple.

THINGS TO REMEMBER ON KEDARKANTHA TREK

• Physical fitness is necessary.
• Permit and Guide is compulsory. Permit can get from DC office between 7 am to 5 pm. Permit cost is 150 per person per day.
• Carry proper woolen clothes, thermal fleece, with a padded jacket to stay away from the wind.
• Keep at least high ankle shoes, which will prevent snow from entering in shoes.
• Micro-spike or Crampon is a must in a night walk.
• A head lamp or torch is necessary.
• Carry a proper insulating water bottle and some energy bars throughout the trek.
• There are some huts available at check-point that sells tea, omelette and Maggy. There are no huts at summit.
• At last, portable tents have been put to use as a washroom.

INCREASE THE BRIGHTNESS TO SEE THE MAGICAL STARS.
Do ask in case of any guidance or queries to plan your trip.